The Sydney restaurants Jamie Oliver really loved eating at last week

The celebrity chef feasted his way around Sydney’s hatted hotspots during his recent whirlwind visit, and found plenty to gush about.

Bianca Hrovat

Celebrity chef Jamie Oliver.
Celebrity chef Jamie Oliver.Supplied

Celebrity chef Jamie Oliver has revealed his top restaurant picks in Sydney at the weekend, including the Good Food Guide Chef of the Year Josh Niland’s “exceptional” St Leonards restaurant, Petermen.

The television personality and cookbook author visited Sydney for a one-off show at the Sydney Opera House, where he spoke candidly about his career with Dessert Masters judge Melissa Leong.

Afterwards, he took a group of former MasterChef contestants to dinner at two-hatted restaurant Petermen, where they were served a “stunning” five course seafood feast. The custom menu featured yellowfin tuna tartare on rice blini, abalone schnitzel sandwiches, charcoal-roasted pipis and Davidson plum madeleines, with Malfoy’s Honey cream.

Coral trout for two at Petermen in St Leonards.
Coral trout for two at Petermen in St Leonards.Josh Niland

Niland’s salt and vinegar garfish with Gordal olive brine was a highlight, said Oliver.

“Dunking the bread in the brine and the oil and eating [it] with these chunks of semi cured fish was a dream,” he said.

“[And the hand line caught charcoal coral trout] was exceptional. Dry aged, giving the most amazing clean flavour, [with a] firm but flaky texture and grilled crispy skin.

“Just wonderful.”

Josh Niland’s Petermen, St Leonards.
Josh Niland’s Petermen, St Leonards. James Brickwood

Oliver described the kitchen team as “wonderful, young, diligent and fastidiously talented”, and said they were likely to look back on their time working at Petermen as a pivotal moment in their career.

“Simply stunning food and service,” Oliver said.

“The desserts didn’t hang around long enough to take a picture, but they were epic.”

On the advice of fellow celebrity chef Donna Hay, Oliver booked his first meal in Sydney with two of his five children (Poppy and Ben) at Circular Quay restaurant Clam Bar.

The mahogany-wrapped Clam Bar site was previously home to The Bridge Room.
The mahogany-wrapped Clam Bar site was previously home to The Bridge Room.Jennifer Soo

Clam Bar is a New York-style steakhouse from the team behind Bistrot 916 and Pellegrino 2000, and recently received two hats in the SMH Good Food Guide.

“It did not disappoint!” Oliver said.

“A very strong front of house team and delicious food.

“Nice one, head chef Sam [Galloway].”

The intimate Bar Copains in Surry Hills.
The intimate Bar Copains in Surry Hills.Edwina Pickles

Oliver’s third pick was Bar Copain, an intimate Surry Hills wine bar by Nathan Sasi (former executive chef at Nomad) and Morgan McGlone (founder of Belle’s Hot Chicken). The hatted restaurant served Oliver their chickpea panisse with wild green garlic sauce; chicken liver parfait with sauternes jelly and brioche (“the pickles were the bomb”); anchovy on puff pastry; and McGlone’s famous chicken wings (“a triumph, as expected”).

The standout, however, was Bar Copain’s signature dish: the pigs head fritti with sauce gribiche (a herbaceous, cold egg sauce).

Pigs head fritti at Bar Copains.
Pigs head fritti at Bar Copains.Edwina Pickles

“Pigs head was a game changer,” Oliver said.

“Every plate was so well executed, [there were] so many great flavours and textures.”

The three restaurants join a growing list of Oliver’s Sydney haunts, as revealed to Good Food prior to his trip in October. These include Good Food’s restaurant of the year Margaret (Double Bay) and Saint Peter (Paddington).

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